It's always important to prepare your boat for months of smooth sailing.  We've created a checklist of recommendations for Imtra systems, arranged here by product type.


STABILIZERS                                         THRUSTERS                                         WINDLASSES                                         WIPERS


WINDLASSES

 

  • Disassemble chainwheel/clutch cone system and lubricate all moving parts and fasteners.
  • Clean all polished/chromed or painted parts with mild detergent. You can wax and polish the metal surfaces for added protection.
  • Check the rope/chain splice. Most anchor rodes are nylon having excellent stretch characteristics for load/shock absorption.  However, these nylon rodes tend to shrink, at the splice, around the first link of chain.  If you find that the splice is tight to the chain, your windlass may become challenged to transition from rope to chain during recovery.  When a splice is new, ideally, there is a gap between the chain and the rope allowing for flexibility as the windlass transitions from rope to chain.  When the rode dries in the heat of the anchor locker, it is common for the rope to shrink down tight to the first link of chain. There are a few simple tips that can improve this joinery. Try rolling the splice in your hands and flex and knead it to soften.  It’s best if you can see a little daylight between the rope and the chain which greatly helps the windlass manage the rode around the relatively small diameter gypsy wheel.  If kneading the rope is not loosening and softening the splice sufficiently, then gently work a small flat head screwdriver or a splicing fid in between the rope and the first link of chain and work the slice loose. If the rode has stiffened and coils like your garden hose, try soaking it in a bucket of cool water and fabric softener.  Avoid warm or hot water as that causes the rope to shrink.  The spring loaded pressure finger on your windlass will then be able to push the rope deeper into the v-groove below the chain link pockets helping to better “grip” the rope during recovery.  If the splice is remains tight after trying these tips, you can reverse the rode and re-splice to the bitter end which will likely be a bit softer.
  • Check the rode for hockles/pigtails and fraying that may have occurred from abrasion
  • Check the electrical cable connections for corrosion and tightness.
  • For horizontal windlasses, check the windlass housing for wear.
  • Inspect gearbox for signs of oil leaks - seal kits are often available.

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WIPER ARMS, BLADES & MOTORS

  • Inspect the rubber on the blade & look for any cracks in the rubber or loss of flexibility. This can cause streaking and will decrease your visibility.
  • Inspect blade frame & where the blade connects to the arm. Be sure all parts are intact and the connection is secure.
  • Check all pivot points in arm and be sure they are free of debris and or salt build up.
  • A stuck pivot point reduces arm pressure on the window causing the blade to not make full contact with the glass.
  • TIP: Keep a spare blade on board for “just in case” scenarios, but make sure you inspect this back up blade as well.

 When performing a wiper motor inspection follow the simple steps below to do it yourself:

  • Inspect the wiring on the motor. Make sure connections are tight and  wires are not corroded or discolored.
  • Waterproof motors are designed to get wet, but make sure if they are exposed to the weather you remove debris, salt  and any dust build up.
  • Non-waterproof motors can be wiped off with a damp cloth, but should never be doused with water.

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STABILIZERS

Side-Power stabilizer systems are designed to be low maintenance, however periodic checks of the system will ensure trouble free operation during busy cruising seasons. It is recommended to check for shaft play, both rotational and axial, every time the boat is out of the water. Tolerances are provided in the owner’s manual. Seasonal checks should include the follow items: 

  • Check that all hydraulic fittings are not leaking
  • Check all hoses for chafing or kinking that can result in ruptured hoses
  • Inspect hydraulic cylinder rods and gland seals for scratching, leaking or corrosion

All other maintenance on Stabilizer systems is based on the hours of operation.  The hours of operation can be found on the touch screen control through the following trail from the home screen:


THRUSTERS

         

  • Download our Thruster Annual Maintenance Guide.
  • Anodes should be replaced yearly or when they are half eroded.  Prior to launch wire brush clean lightly eroded anodes to remove any oxidation after being exposed to air. When installing anodes, use blue Loctite on the anode screw.
  • Props, gearleg and tunnel should be anti-foul painted periodically as is required for the hull.  Pay close attention to the props; they should be removed and cleaned completely prior to painting.  Even barnacle feet left on the props after scraping clean will reduce performance and run time.
  • Remove props and grease the prop shafts with marine grade grease.
  • For models with Gravity-Feed Gearlegs only (with oil reservoir and feed tube):
    • Check the gearleg oil feed tube for water.  If the oil is milky, there is a water leak and the gearleg should be serviced by a qualified marine technician. 
    • Check the gearleg oil reservoir level.  EP90 gear oil is recommended.  If unavailable, 80-90 or 85-90 weight gear oil can be substituted.
    • The gearleg oil should be changed every two years under normal recreational use conditions.  Remove the Gearleg Drain Plug and allow fresh oil from the reservoir to flush out the used oil.  Reinstall a new drain plug and gasket and top-off the reservoir as necessary.
    • Permanently Sealed Gearlegs do not require servicing.
  • Thruster Compartment (Standard Thrusters only - does not apply to to Ignition Protected Thrusters):
    • The thruster motor creates heat with prolonged usage.  It is important that there are no objects in contact with the motor.
    • Thruster motors also create carbon dust, so it is advised not to store items in the thruster compartment.
    • The thruster compartment should remain dry.  No damp or wet items should be stowed in the thruster compartment.
    • If the thruster compartment is humid, adding ventilation or use of desiccant is recommended.
  • Check all cable connections for tightness and corrosion.
  • Check the operating voltage at the thruster.  12V thrusters typically run between 9.5V and 10.5V, 24V thrusters typically run between 18V and 21V.  If voltage is below 9V for 12V thrusters or below 17V for 24V thrusters, a qualified marine technician should look into the cause of low operating voltage.

As with all of Imtra's product lines, when in doubt, our Customer Service Team or Dealer Network are available to answer any questions you might have.